Kraig Adams - Alta Via 1

Alta Via 1 is one of the most iconic hut to hut hikes in the Dolomites, crossing alpine passes, dramatic limestone peaks, turquoise lakes, and quiet pine forests while linking together a network of mountain refuges. Over seven days I hiked the full route alone from Lago di Braies to Belluno, stopping each night for pasta, strudel, espresso, and a bed in the huts along the trail. The route is known for its dramatic scenery and relatively accessible terrain, making it one of the most popular long distance hikes in northern Italy.

Quick Facts

Location: Dolomites, Italy

Trail: Alta Via 1

Distance: 75 miles / 120 km

Duration: 7 days

Style: Hut to hut hiking

Start: Lago di Braies

Finish: Belluno

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation gain: ~25,000 ft total

Nearest airport: Venice Marco Polo Airport

Trip date: September 2025

Best months to hike: July–September

Getting to the Trail

I flew from New York City to Venice for this trip. Round trip flights were just over $500. From Venice I took a bus to Cortina d’Ampezzo, stayed overnight, and then took a local bus the following morning to Lago di Braies, the traditional starting point of Alta Via 1.

Day 1 — Lago di Braies to Rifugio Biella

9.5 miles / 15.3 km

5,230 ft / 1,594 m gain

I arrived at Lago di Braies with fresh legs and perfect weather, excited to begin the hike. The large hotel sitting at the edge of the lake made it clear this would probably be the busiest moment of the entire trek. Tourists were everywhere taking photos along the shoreline and lining up to ride the famous wooden boats floating on the turquoise water.

Instead of waiting in line, I walked past the small church at the edge of the lake and continued along the trail. Nearby were stacks of white rocks placed by visitors along the path. Some people online strongly dislike seeing these rock stacks, but in a place this touristy I didn’t think much about it.

The weather was ideal with bright sun and scattered clouds lighting up the surrounding pine forests. Today’s hike was a relatively easy start to the trip: about 10 miles with a single mountain pass and roughly 3,600 feet of climbing.

The trail climbs quickly above Lago di Braies through pine forest. As I gained elevation the views opened up behind me, revealing the lake far below and the surrounding peaks. From higher on the trail I could see the full pass I would soon cross and what I believe was Monte Pelmo visible in the distance, a mountain I would end up hiking alongside later in the trip.

I reached Rifugio Biella around midday and stopped for vegetable soup and strudel before continuing. A pair of hikers asked if they were on the Alta Via 1, which surprised me since they didn’t have a map downloaded on their phone. Before starting this trip I created a custom route for each day in AllTrails and downloaded the maps for offline use. Following the GPS location bubble makes it easy to stay on the trail and track progress throughout the day.

Even up here there were still quite a few hikers around. A Romanian couple stopped me on the trail to say they watched my videos and asked for a photo, which was a nice moment during the hike.

Just before sunset I arrived at the hut where I would spend the night. I checked in, changed out of my sun shirt, and sat down for my first beer of the hike. Dinner was pasta before settling in for the night.

Day 2 — Rifugio Biella to Rifugio Lagazuoi

12.6 miles / 20.2 km

5,930 ft / 1,808 m gain

Solo hiking becomes very noticeable at breakfast inside the mountain huts. Everyone eats quietly before heading out for the day.

I packed up my 35L Hyperlite pack and started hiking before the sun reached the valley. Another solo hiker saw me filming and stopped to say hello before subscribing to the channel. After chatting briefly I continued along the trail and passed a small lake that was perfectly still, reflecting the mountains as the first sunlight began to reach the ridge above.

Early morning fog created dramatic layers of blue mountains stretching into the distance. Along the trail I noticed a few statues, crosses, and flags placed on nearby peaks. I enjoy discovering small details like this along a hike even if I have no plans of climbing those summits.

Later in the morning I stopped at a small hut for a quick break. Outside was a carved wooden mountain lion that my two year old son would have loved to see. I ordered a simple plate of sausage and bread with an espresso while a chicken wandered around the tables.

For a stretch the trail followed a dirt road through a wide valley. It wasn’t the most exciting section to hike, but the mountains surrounding the valley were still impressive. Eventually the road ended and I began climbing toward the pass above Lago Lagazuoi.

As I approached the pass the number of hikers increased noticeably. This area, known as Forcella del Lago, is a very popular day hike destination.

On the other side of the pass the trail dropped steeply down a winding staircase made of rock and wood. The exposed switchbacks reminded me of sections of Zion National Park like Angel’s Landing.

The staircase leads down to Lago Lagazuoi, one of the highlights of the Alta Via 1. I took a break at the lake and dipped my legs into the cold water to cool off.

By this point the day had accumulated nearly 6,000 feet of elevation gain and my legs were ready for rest. The final climb toward Rifugio Lagazuoi gradually entered the cloud layer as I approached the hut.

I stored my shoes, settled into my bunk in the dorm, and grabbed a beer while waiting to see if the fog would lift. From the terrace there were no views at all, but sending the drone above the clouds revealed incredible views of the mountains surrounding the hut.

Day 3 — Rifugio Lagazuoi to Rifugio Città di Fiume

14.5 miles / 23.3 km

4,010 ft / 1,221 m gain

The next morning the fog was lower in the valley and I finally got a clear view of Rifugio Lagazuoi perched dramatically on the cliff above. A handful of hikers gathered outside to watch the sunrise while a more popular viewpoint nearby was already crowded with cameras.

After breakfast I started the day’s hike and quickly descended out of the clouds into light rain. I reached Passo Falzarego and waited inside a small shop with an espresso until the rain passed.

When the skies cleared the mountains looked completely different. Sunlight after the rain created dramatic views, and it was satisfying to look back at the descent I had just come down.

One place I wanted to stop was Rifugio Nuvolau, a small hut sitting on top of a huge cliff. From a distance it looks almost impossible to reach, but a gradual slope allows hikers to walk right up to it. The hut was busy but I stopped for a meal anyway, ordering pasta, a small salad, and another espresso.

On the way down I noticed a bright red hillside that stood out sharply against the blue sky behind it. At first I thought I saw a strange white shape in the distance, but it turned out to be sheep being herded into a pen.

Soon I reached Passo Giau, a famous mountain pass where the winding road attracts plenty of motorcyclists. The surrounding hills were surprisingly brown compared to photos I had seen of this area earlier in the year.

Once I left the pass the trail became much quieter. The open terrain and lack of other hikers made this section especially enjoyable. Hiking alone through these wide alpine landscapes often puts me into a flow where the miles pass quickly.

The final stretch of the day followed a road through forest before reaching Rifugio Città di Fiume, a small hut surrounded by pine trees.

After checking in and choosing my bunk in the dorm I finished the last of the hazelnut wafers I had been carrying throughout the hike. As the sun set the sky turned deep blue over the surrounding mountains, marking the halfway point of my Alta Via 1 trek.